Alexander Burgener
Alexander Burgener (10 January 1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps during the silver age of alpinism.
Together with Albert Mummery, he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in the Mont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881). With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878),
He was killed by an avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihütte in the Bernese Alps. Six other climbers died in the avalanche, including Burgener's son Adolf. Another son, Alexander, lost an eye in the incident.[1]
First ascents
- Lenzspitze, 1870
- Portjengrat, 1871
- Grand Dru, 1878
- Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn, 1879
- Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880
- Grands Charmoz, 1880
- Charpoua face of the Aiguille Verte, 1881
- Aiguille du Grépon, 1881
- Frontier ridge of Mont Maudit, 1887
- Teufelsgrat of Täschhorn, 1887
Bibliography
- Fux, A. (1961). Alexander Burgener, König der Bergführer. Bern: Verlag Hallwag.[2]
- Mummery, A. F (2004). My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 1-904466-09-5.
Notes
- ^ Gos, Charles (1948). "The Maddened Waves of Snow". Alpine Tragedy. Trans. Malcolm Barnes. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 270–278.
- ^ viz., Alexander Burgener, King of the Mountain Guides
External links
- Alexander Burgener in German, French and Italian in the online Historical Dictionary of Switzerland.
- v
- t
- e
- Aiguille d'Argentière
- Aiguille de Bionnassay
- Aiguille de Blaitière
- Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
- Aiguille du Chardonnet
- Aiguilles du Diable
- Aiguilles Dorées
- Aiguille du Dru
- Aiguille des Glaciers
- Aiguille du Goûter
- Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
- Aiguille des Grands Montets
- Aiguille du Grépon
- Aiguille du Jardin
- Aiguille du Midi
- Aiguille de l'A Neuve
- Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
- Aiguille du Pissoir
- Aiguille du Plan
- Aiguille de Rochefort
- Aiguille du Tour
- Aiguille de Tré la Tête
- Aiguille de Triolet
- Aiguille Verte
- La Breya
- Le Catogne
- Le Châtelet (Mont Blanc)
- Dent du Géant
- Dôme du Goûter
- Dôme de Rochefort
- Les Droites
- Le Génépi
- Grand Capucin
- Grand Darray
- Grand Pilier d'Angle
- Grande Lui
- Grande Pointe des Planereuses
- Grande Rocheuse
- Grandes Jorasses
- Mont Blanc
- Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
- Mont Blanc du Tacul
- Mont Brouillard
- Mont Dolent
- Mont Mallet
- Mont Maudit
- Pic Eccles
- Picco Luigi Amedeo
- Pointe Allobrogia
- Pointe Helbronner
- Pointe d'Orny
- Pointe des Plines
- Pointe Ronde
- Pointe Walker
- Le Portalet
- Punta Baretti
- Tita Neire
- Tour Noir
- Tour Ronde
(first or major ascents)
- Allain
- Almer
- Anderegg (J.)
- Anderegg (M.)
- Balmat
- Blanchard
- Blodig
- Boivin
- Bonatti
- Bonington
- Boulaz
- Bristow
- Brown
- Burgener
- Cassin
- Charlet
- Clough
- Cordier (H.)
- Cordier (P.)
- Couzy
- Croz
- Dent
- Desmaison
- Destivelle
- Długosz
- Eccles
- Eckenstein
- Gabarrou
- Ghirardini
- Graham Brown
- Güssfeldt
- Harlin
- Heckmair
- Hemming
- Hudson
- Kennedy
- King
- Klucker
- Kuffner
- Kukuczka
- Kurtyka
- Lachenal
- Lafaille
- Lambert
- MacIntyre
- Mallory
- Maund
- Mazeaud
- Messner
- Middlemore
- Moore
- Mummery
- Paccard
- Paradis
- Patey
- Ratti
- Rébuffat
- Rey
- Robbins
- Roch
- Rouse
- de Saussure
- Smythe
- Stephen
- Terray
- Twight
- Vallençant
- Walker
- Whillans
- Whymper
- Winthrop Young
- Arve (river)
- Chemin de fer du Montenvers
- Giardino Botanico Alpino Saussurea
- Haute Route
- Marathon du Mont Blanc
- Mont Blanc glacier flood
- Mont Blanc tramway
- Mont Blanc Tunnel
- Saint-Gervais–Vallorcine railway
- Skyway Monte Bianco
- Top of the Mont Blanc
- Tour du Mont Blanc
- Val d'Aosta
- Val Ferret
- Val Veny
- Vallée Blanche Aerial Tramway
This biographical article relating to climbing or mountaineering is a stub. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it. |
- v
- t
- e
This Swiss biographical article is a stub. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it. |
- v
- t
- e